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Perfumery projects

Perfumer and stake holders reply to a simple question: "What constitutes art in perfumery for you and how do you envision this in the reality of the fragrance industry?"

When we asked this question Michael Edwards during Esxence 2010 in Milano, he referred to:

Poison in his book "Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances" as he discussed this question there.

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Michael Edwards on Art in Perfumery

For perfumery to be art there needs to be a triptych of elements fused: the emotion (concept) realized; the essence (artifact) composed; the dress (presentation) designed. All three contribute to a memorable fragrance! This idea is further deconstructed into specific aims of the creative process itself such as innovation, uniqueness and fitting the zeitgeist.

To answer your question I like to quote Maurice Roger, head at Dior at the time Poison was conceived, who is convinced that there is no creation without risk: “You never know at the outset if a new creation will become a long-term asset, something that is constantly alive. But if a perfume is to last, it has to be a genuine creation. It must make a breakthrough and open new territory. If not, it’s an imitation”.
For instance, the classics have an extremity of character, often deriving from an extreme dosage of some component. Consider Chanel No 5, for example, with its overdose of aldehydes; Vent Vert with its jolt of galbanum; or Shalimar with its signature of ethyl vanillin. I think that a classic is characterized by an overdose of either an ingredient or an accord. Or it can transcend traditional fragrance families, like Poison did, which does not belong to any existing fragrance family encompassing potent fruity, floral, musky and oriental elements.

But exclusivity is also of paramount importance. To quote Roger again: “The perfume has to be so exclusive that nobody can imitate you […] so powerful, so enormous, that nobody can touch it.”

Last but not least, that very essential quality that is so often elusive: a new fragrance must fit the mood of contemporary culture, speak to people’s sensibilities: “ Perfume is substance and spirit. It must be a story, a myth, long before people wear it. If you don’t have noise and word-of-mouth, it doesn’t work, it has no meaning - it’s just business.”

© Copyright Michael Edwards 2010. Specific quotes exclusively authorized for Perfumism.com;
not to be reprinted without the editor’s written permission.

COMMENTS (3)

1. 2010-05-19 - Walker Minton

Interesting article - I think it exposes the concept of art itself as being a little shallow. Mr. Edwards seems to define it in terms of zeitgeist, innovation, bottle design etc. This suggests that art is about capturing commerce, creating demand, selling craft. Essentially it is advertising; adding false value to things due their trendiness.

Regardless of the fact that the concept is not new, is a beautifully balanced accord of lavender made from great materials of not of value?

2. 2010-05-20 - Andy Tauer

I find it outlines how thin the line is. I agree on a beautiful balanced accord of lavender made from great material can be a piece of art. From my point of view there is a but.... there must be an innovation, a new line, something original.

I wonder from my side about the zeitgeist, and how a perfume must fit the mood of contemporary culture: Could it not be that it must be one step ahead? Going beyond what is on the table right now?

Actually, I love the article on Poison, as it opens up a lot of questions, exemplified by a great piece of writing, and a perfume that was a great, very great commercial success.

3. 2010-05-22 - Walker Minton

I agree in that I would have thought that for "art" to be a meaningful concept, an item would have to be outside the zeitgeist, creating new conversation, steering the overall discourse somehow. Expressing zeitgeist suggests reflection rather than innovation to me.

However, I would make no connection between newness and value whatsoever. Everything is new and nothing is. Sonny Rollins speaks the same language he always spoke but every note he plays is new....is it art now, or was it when he first did it 50 years ago? BB KIng plays great blues using exactly the same vocabulary he did 60 years ago. It moves people. Art? Baroque music is completely ossified. It was new, but not now. It is usually considered "art" music.

I think art is a redundant concept. People reorganise information, energy, matter. They take the refuse to the dump, they explore combinations sound wave energy (music), they cook (apply heat to organic matter), they combine aromatic substances (perfumism). Maybe all that matters is whether they do it out of a genuine desire to investigte or with a cynical adgena to dupe by claiming false value for something?

Reprint of POISON from Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances

Perfumism is authorized to reprint online the chapter on POISON from "Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances". We invite you to follow the full story of POISON here, following this link to Masterpieces...>

(Copyright © 1996 Michael Edwards. All rights reserved.
Reproduced with the author’s permission.)

ABOUT MICHAEL EDWARDS
Michael Edwards is the author of both Fragrances of the World and Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, the cult book that opened a secret world. For the first time, perfumers spoke openly about their creations and the sources of their inspiration.

Recognised by two FiFi awards for his contributions to the fragrance industry. Edwards has become the perfume experts’ expert. His annual Fragrances of the World guidebooks are the most comprehensive references for perfume industry professionals, journalists and fragrance lovers alike. Recommended Link: Fragrances of the World

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Francois Duquesne

Francois Duquesne, former president l'artisan parfumeur, director general Maesa Creative Beauty Solutions, France:

" Art of perfumery is about establishing an authentic emotional connection ...." continued HERE>>

The answers from perfumers and perfume lovers and people moving boundaries in the field are the starting point of a growing and permanent collection. We invite you to follow up and discuss.

Video chats on art in perfumery:
Enjoy our video chats, uploaded on the blog section of perfumism.

Marika Vecciattini from Bergamotto e Benzoine Blog
James Heeley

Karen Dubins from Sniffaplooza

Grant Osborne from Basenotes.net

List of received printed contributions: The complete list of contributions you may find here, in ART IN PERFUMERY.

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